SHUKR Behind the Scenes, Part 2: Pattern-Making and Prototypes
Having taken a look behind the scenes of the design process with Tabassum Siddiqui, our Head Designer, in Part 1, we now take a glimpse at the next step along the way to producing the SHUKR garments that you find online.
Part 2: Pattern Making and Prototypes: Striving for Perfection
Turning an idea into reality
After receiving our Head Designer’s inspiring collection of designs in our Syrian production factory, another creative step in the process needs to be accomplished, that of pattern-making.
Tabassum sends a TEKPAK for each design in the collection, which is a pack of technical specifications for each design, including a flat sketch of the design, sewing instructions, and the choice of fabric and accessories. However, regardless of how much detail Tabassum conveys about her designs, there still needs to be a talented team of pattern-makers who convert the theoretical design into a series of pattern pieces which, once sewn together, make up the physical garment. Take this flat sketch of the Sahira Dress Top (US, UK) which Tabassum produced:
Our pattern-makers studied the design and produced the patterns which were used to manufacture the end product you can now find online:
Each style requires different pattern pieces in different sizes and different proportions. For example, take the Paneled Godet Skirt (US, UK) pictured below from our spring collection. How many separate pieces do you think are sewn together to make the finished product?
You may be surprised to know that there are over 20 fabric pieces needed to be sewn together to make it. The pattern-makers’ job is to create these pieces in the right sizes and proportions so that when they are sewn together, the end result is an attractive garment, conforming in its measurements to rigorous company standards. It’s no surprise to learn then, that pattern-making is a highly skilled profession which requires formal training and many years of experience to understand the principles involved in creating perfect patterns.
SHUKR’s pattern-makers work with the flat pattern drafting technique, using well-known computer-aided design programs. Here is one of our pattern-makers working on a new blouse:
Creating a Prototype
The pattern-maker starts off by making a sample pattern for the new design. The computer-generated pattern is then printed via a specific oversized printer (over 5 feet wide!), placed on top of the fabric, and then carefully cut out, ready to be sewn.
The sewn prototype garment is then tried on a fit model—a man or woman whose measurements are the commercial measurements for that size. The prototype is analyzed by a select committee of inspectors for its accordance to company sizing standards, aesthetic appearance, functionality, quality of construction, and conformity to Islamic standards of modesty. If any problems in the fit are identified then the whole cycle is repeated again: the pattern-maker amends his original pattern, a new garment is cut and sewn, and then it is tried on the fit model to make sure that the problems have been eliminated and the pattern is now perfect. If problems still remain then we will continue repeating the cycle until we are completely satisfied with the prototype. We normally get it perfected by the second attempt, but there have been cases of repeating the prototype up to 5 times in the quest for perfection!
Lots of work still to go…
The pattern-makers’ work is still not done, however, even once we have agreed upon the pattern for the prototype. Why is this? Because the prototype is still only in one size, normally a size medium. We now have to create the patterns for all the other sizes that SHUKR offers, which range from small up to 3XL. This is done by a complicated technique called grading, also done by computer-aided design. There are certain principles SHUKR uses to transform the size medium prototype into a size small and size large, and from a size large to a size XL, and from XL to 2XL and then 3XL. Once we have all the patterns for the different sizes ready, we will cut and sew another sample, this time in size 2XL, to make sure that the grading has been performed completely accurately. The measurements of the size 2XL are taken to make sure that they conform to company standards.
Off to production…
Having completed the exhaustive process of pattern-making and prototype preparation, we are now ready to enter this new design, along with many completed others, into SHUKR’s monthly production schedule. This, however, is the subject of a future blog post: The Process Part 3: Production. Stay tuned!
~ Anas, Managing Partner
Brother http://Shame
May 18th, 2009 at 8:27 amAssalam alaikum,
It’s a great shame that Shukr online although run by religious brothers use living models and quite TIGHT clothes by Islamic standard.
When are you going to wake up?!
Anas
May 19th, 2009 at 3:41 amAssalaamu Aleikum Brother,
Thank you for your recent comments. SHUKR is attempting to provide modest, Shariah-conforming clothing appropriate for Muslims living in the West. This is a new enterprise and there are no universally accepted “Islamic” or even sizing standards for such clothing. We are trying our best, hopefully with a good intention, to work with Muslims living in the West, to find standards that are acceptable from a Shariah perspective whilst meeting the aesthetics needs of our customers. We have consulted a number of scholars (conservative Sunni scholars, in fact, who have taqwa and advise us appropriately) and they have generally approved of the clothing, although they have had reservations about some items or photos, which we have then tried to rectify.
A quick point about the trousers: All of our trousers are loose from the just above the knee down to the bottom. However, in order to provide a comfortable, attractive fit, the pants are tighter from the thigh and above. Most of our customers do not show this part of their body because they wear some of our long tunics or blouses hanging over their pants. If you look at the pictures of our tops you will see many photographed with pants and the pants do not appear immodest. However, when photographing pants on their own, we have to show the complete garment to the customer in order for them to fully assess it. We assume that women alone go to these sections of our website.
Finally, it should be noted that many of our customers buy our clothing not necessarily to wear outside in front of non-mahram men, but rather in front of other sisters, their husbands, family, and so on.
If you have specific garments which you find are particularly immodest, then please email us with the details and we will look into the situation.
We look forward to hearing from you with any helpful advice that you can offer.
Wassalam
Anas Sillwood
Managing Partner
Terry
May 27th, 2009 at 5:06 pmAsalamu alaikum warahmatullahi wa baraketo,
Thank you Anas for your wonderful reply to the brothers comments. May Allah bless you always for your efforts to serve our muslim brothers and sisters. I know it is not nearly as easy as people may think and you must be truly doing this for Allah and the Ummah to make it worth while.
Fee iman illah,
Terry